(Two cyclists from Ontario discover that there is more to BC than "the coast")

The path was a steady climb, nothing too serious but loose gravel and stones requiring constant effort. It was late in the evening, about 8, and we'd driven along narrow winding paved roads before hitting a gravel one and continuing upward to find our starting point, a cleared path that used to be a train route. All the ties had been pulled and the route converted to a cycling and hiking trail. Unlike Ontario this past season, the insects weren't hungry for human flesh in early July, and we were quite comfortable riding along enjoying the scenery. Heavy forest lay on our left and a drop off to our right, with a beautiful view of Penticton in the sunset. This was our first taste of riding in the Okanagan Valley, the orchard of British Columbia. We climbed for a good half hour, then turned into the woods where the climb steepened and technical climbing ability came into play. After a half hour of tricky switchbacks it started to get dark and we decided to head back to the car. It's always nice to have the downhill at the end of the ride!

Two riders new to the Penticton area, we had decided to first try the Tourist Information Office in Rotary Park for maps of local trails. They were able to provide us with directions to two rides in the area. They informed us that both were abandoned railway lines providing ample kilometres of mildly challenging mountain biking, the aforementioned ride being one of these. It was a good start, but we decided that our best bet would be to check out the local bike shop.

The store recommended to us was called the Bike Barn, and we entered it the next morning hoping to get the lowdown on any singletrack possibilities in the area. We were impressed with the huge selection of bikes and accessories that the store had to offer. The staff were really friendly and explained the directions to some trails only a short drive away. The trail we chose was to be found at the end of a residential road in the Husula Highlands, in the northwest end of town. An inviting path greeted us and we started out excitedly. We immediately hit an uphill climb but it levelled off soon enough and led us to a crossroads of trails: one led down, one left, one right and up. We opted for the left one, a stony trail which quickly turned into an uphill grind and soon became a Hike-a-Bike. We were already high up in the hills, with a brief glimpse of a tempting view, so we continued despite the steepness of the trail to see what we'd find.

All that climbing paid off. The path brought us to a grassy plateau, which we rode across towards the edge. An abrupt drop, and a stunning view appeared in front of us. Definite photo opportunity. Most of the trails were rocky and rough and didn't last long, but that didn't matter, the view was worth it. The better part of the afternoon was spent exploring and taking pictures. Everything seemed so far away , so secluded, with only the sound of swallows' wings catching the wind as they swooped around us. The treacherous descent on the loose stones brought visions of endos and severe trail rash. Making it down unscathed, with the adrenalin still pumping, it was obvious we hadn't had enough riding yet. Back at the crossroads, we took the path to the right and it turned out to be a amazing narrow singletrack that went swerving through grassy meadows on the hillside. Flying along the trail, enjoying every "loop-de-loo" with the sun shining on our backs, we were abruptly stopped in our tracks with the appearance of a cluster of homes. We had no idea where we were at that point, so we turned back along the same route and climbed back to our car. It was a great ride and we were feeling tired, but not tired enough to miss the "Just Pies!" signs along the road. Pulling up to the little house we knew we were in store for some good old home cooking. We found an amazing selection of fresh pies and serious breads. I highly recommend the cherry pie and the "Leaping Rosemary" bread.

The guys at the Bike Barn had mentioned Apex, a ski resort near by which offered mountain biking in the off season. For $45 one could ride the chair lifts and trails all day , accompanied by a guide. Our other option was Silver Star ski resort just outside Vernon. My boyfriend John, having photographed the 1994 Grundig World Cup Finals there, was quite anxious to return. We decided to see what a World Cup course was really like to ride.

Moving on from the Penticton area, we drove to Vernon, which is 47 kilometres north of Kelowna. Most drives through British Columbia take you along winding mountain highways, and this route was no different. To this Toronto couple, taking turns sleeping during the drives was not an option, especially with the scenery available to us around every turn.

Silver Star is a village designed to depict a old Western town, with three hotels, a grocery store, and a ski and bike shop. The Vance Creek Hotel was our choice, having decided for this visit not to stay at the numerous bed and breakfasts in the area, but instead in the village close to the lifts. $69 a night was the going summer rate, and we walked into an immense suite with kitchenette, dining room table, two TV's, large master bed and two bunk beds (obviously great for a family trip). Not to say that the suites would always be available at this rate, but it seemed we lucked out by being there in low season. We arrived at night, and passed some time enjoying the hotel's hot tub and getting primed for the next day's ride.

Lift tickets are purchased in the ski shop, where it's also possible to rent bikes. We clipped on our lift tags and rode down to the start. The staff loaded our bikes onto the chair lift and we hopped onto the next chair. The 15 to 20 minute chair ride gave us plenty of time to check out the view. Various trails along the mountain side were visible as we neared the top. We were in for a day of exciting downhill riding . The day was sunny and clear, but cooler than we were accustomed to, due to the altitude.

In shady areas mounds of unmelted snow occasionally dotted the trails. From the top, riders had several options, ranging from fast sweeping fire roads to tight and twisty singletrack. We attacked them all, including the World Cup course. If you want to ride the entire course I recommend visiting Silver Star in August or September, by which time the two foot deep patches of snow on the upper half of the course will be gone.

One thing that is unavoidable is the altitude, and for two people with Ontario-sized lungs, any climb was that little bit tougher. After nine intense rides down the mountain side, one thing was certain: both of us definitely appreciated having suspension. We highly recommend visiting this resort, especially if you need a fix for your need for speed.

We wished we could have spent more time exploring the beautiful Okanagan Valley by bike. Our hosts in Penticton had suggested we ride south 40 kilometres to Osoyoos, the only natural desert in Canada. This desert, littered with sage bushes and cactuses, would have been another beautiful and breathtaking ride, but, as with all vacations, we just didn't have enough time. Oh well... more to see and experience on the next trip.

P.S. If you plan on travelling in British Columbia with your bike stop by "Rack Attack" in Vancouver , a great place to rent racks for any car.